Latest Posts by roebert - Page 4

my issue with the argument that "disliking ai art is inherently reactionary" is that it acts like pro-ai art people are somehow less reactionary on their views on art, when like the majority of defense's of ai art as like a higher form art are indistinguishable from the arguments people use to defend the art of like. hitler

AVOID BOA CONSTRICTOR . COM/JEREMY STONE REPTILES

Normally I don't post things like this but I cannot stand by and not say my piece on this. The ball python hobby has been going down the shitter for a long, long time. Not the keeping part of it, no, the big minimalist breeders who see these living, breathing creatures as nothing more than a dollar sign in a plastic tote, are absolutely ruining the hobby for us. Jeremy Stone, owner and runner of boaconstrictor(DOT)com, was throwing ball pythons high up into the air, 'juggling' them, to show potential customers how 'docile' they are. Absolutely no respect to the animals, and with how much he dropped them I would be surprised if one or two of them didn't have a broken rib. If you want to watch the video, a screen grab was taken before he dirty deleted it. It's here. (Sorry its on facebook, I havent seen it on any other platform yet) Not only is he risking these animals being majorly injured, he is showing just how little most big ball python breeders actually care about their animals. Because this is how other big box breeders are reacting:

(Screenshots are not mine, but are shared with permission) NONE OF THEM SEE ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT I am appalled and disgusted. I look at my babies, at Leliana most of all, and I could never imagine treating any of them with even the slightest bit of disrespect. These animals are so sweet, and so curious, and so special. And they're being treated like garbage. Adding on to that, now PETA and other places that exploit pet ownership for money will take this video and try to use it to end the reptile keeping hobby. Because they see this and can share it, and can make it seem like us small hobbyists, that actually love and care for our animals, are treating them like that. He is making us all look terrible. Needless to say, I am not breeding ball pythons anymore. I can't stand the thought of any of my babies going to someone like that. As much as I vet through people before they buy, I can't stop them from rehoming, and there is always a possibility that they'll end up in the hands of someone who only see them as a dollar sign. I'm not 'getting out of the hobby' as it were, they are my babies and they are here to stay. I just won't be breeding them anymore. I may breed other species in the future, but I can't stand the way the ball python hobby has turned out.

Do you accept horrible things that USED to have legs, but have now been rendered in a more vile and slithery form?

I will be honest.

#horrible things with legs is a VERY open, very vibes-based collection.

Show me whatcha got

Posting a new photo to pin to the profile. Hi! <3

Gucci Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear

this is kind of misleading I fear, (sorry for the long post) The final one would be part of the realism movement as it depicts manual labour in an un-glamourised fashion. The second could be baroque or romantic depending on the subject - baroque focused more on strong movement and lighting, romantic focused more on the representation of violence and strong emotions. The first /could/ be from the renaissance period but I'd be surprised. The angle and facial expression feel more romantic and the renaissance "leading lines" would have been defined by the scenery not by the subjects. As the background does not have strong, obvious perspective I'm gonna go with it not being from the renaissance period. An important thing to note is that there are multiple distinct styles/movements during the Renaissance period. The art during the Italian renaissance was defined by its references to the antiquity and by the mathematical approach to perspective. There were two Italian schools of thought when it came to painting. One prioritised use of colour (leaving a soft, almost blurry sensation). These were the modernists who considered that there needed to be more innovation in artwork. The others, the classicists prioritised shapes and references to the antiquity much more than the modernists. Finally the art of the Flemish Renaissance period prioritised symbolism and realism and had a much less mathematical approach to perspective. Flemish paintings of the period had an incredibly high level of detail. Examples of Baroque paintings: (please note that I have not studied this particular movement in depth - go do your own research about this movement too!)

Annibale Carracci, The Lamentation of Christ, c. 1604

Charles Lorrain, The Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba, 1648

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, The Calling of Saint Matthew, c. 1599 Note how all of these paintings have religious themes and have a fixation with light and movement. Examples of Romantic paintings:

Theodore de Géricault, the Raft of the Medusa, 1818/1819 (this is the painting that started the romantic movement)

Eugène Delacroix, The Death of Sardanapulus, 1627 Note the fixation on violence and strong emotions as well as the more controversial subject matter - romantic paintings were often very badly received at the time. Examples of Renaissance paintings: Italian Renaissance period:

Raphael, The School of Athens, 1509 (note the very strong perspective in the scenery as well as the antiquity-inspired decor and subject)

Titian, The Venus of Urbino, 1538 Flemish Renaissance period:

Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Wedding, 1434 (take a moment to zoom around and try and pick up the symbolism... it's one of those works where you can spend hours trying to find all the hidden details the painter put in - also note the slightly wonky perspective)

Hubert and Jan Van Eyck ,The Ghent Altarpiece, completed in 1432 (this is an example of a polyptych, a common format for paintings during the larger Medieval Renaissance periods) Note the heavy concentration of symbolic imagery, the use of atmospheric perspective (which was also used in works during the Italian Renaissance), the more "realistic" representation and a use of more earthy tones Examples of Realistic paintings:

Gustave Courbet, A Burial at Ornans, 1849-1850

Jean-Francois Millet, The Gleaners, 1857 Note the representation of more prosaic subjects and a focus on manual labour.

I know this is going to make me sound pretensions but I have to get it off my chest. I feel an unimaginable rage when someone posts a photo and is like "this picture looks like a renaissance painting lol" when the photo clearly has the lighting, colors and composition of a baroque or romantic painting. There are differences in these styles and those differences are important and labeling every "classical" looking painting as renaissance is annoying and upsetting to me. And anytime I come across one of those posts I have to put down my phone and go take a walk because they make me so mad

IT IS [WEELVIL] WEDNESDAY MY DUDES

IT IS [WEELVIL] WEDNESDAY MY DUDES

IT IS [WEELVIL] WEDNESDAY MY DUDES

Thom Browne Lunar new year collection 2025 (for future reference - I do NOT have the money for anything from this collection unfortunately but I might use it for sewing reference later down the line)

submitted by @history-be-written 🤍🧡

You reblogged a post about the negative impacts of harvesting mosses and lichens from the wild which made me wonder about my own relationship with (and use of) wild mosses. I enjoy creating terrariums (for my isopod colonies for example) and tend to harvest wild moss to propagate in these. I dry it out in the sun (and make sure to remove any insects) before cooking it to remove bacteria. I then rehydrate it once I've found a place for it. I take moss from areas that are already thick with it and treat collecting it as I would any other wild plant - making sure I take as little as possible so as to have the smallest impact on the ecosystem. Despite this, I don't think I had realised the frailty of this flora and am now worried that I might have had a much more negative impact than I'd originally believed. Do you have any tips/information on how to harvest moss in a way that causes the minimum amount of impact (such as places to harvest from and techniques to employ while harvesting). If the solution is that doing so is just inherently inexcusable, could you give me tips on how to propagate the moss I already have as efficiently as possible, so that I may have enough for bigger projects (like a bioactive vivarium for my snake)? Thank you very much for your time, - A worried moss enjoyer

I’m so glad you’re thinking about this and what actions you can take! It sounds like you’re being thoughtful and intentional about your harvesting practice and not harvesting for commercial use or profit. I recommend identifying the kinds of moss you’re harvesting and doing research on their growth and vulnerability. It’s also not legal to collect moss in many areas, so be mindful of the law and local cultural practices — it’s important to be respectful to the plants and the people who care for them. You also have to consider the environment they grow in — can you replicate it well? What substrates can you provide?

Try not to take from the same place if you can avoid it — give the moss a chance to recover. Monitoring their growth after harvesting can give you an idea of how much you affect them.

Mosses are diverse and their needs and growing speeds are different. My personal recommendation is to harvest a very small amount (and maybe some of the substrate, to make sure you don’t damage the underlying structures) and attempt to grow it at home. If you can’t support it, I would choose a different moss. I would try to find a moss that you can grow so you can harvest a small amount and let it spread naturally over time.

For propagation, my mosses live with my carnivorous plants so they have high humidity and light. Not all mosses want light though, so really check where they grow.

Thanks so much for writing in and being environmentally conscious! I hope you can keep enjoying moss for many years to come.

do you know much about creating and maintaining an artificial biotope? More specifically, how does bacteria help in maintaining these ecosystems in the long term?

Hello, thank you for the marvellous question! Biotope is a very broad term but generally refers to an area where environmental conditions are the same/quite consistent, or a small ecosystem. Fish tanks are a good example of this.

I have not tried to create one and unfortunately cannot provide much information from my research, but it’s worth thinking about what bacteria normally do in ecosystems. Breaking down organic matter, nitrogen fixing, chilling out and getting me sick…they may also have symbiotic relationships with other organisms, like how humans have microbes that support our immune and digestive systems (I’m NOT explaining the complexities of the microbiome here, this is a huge simplification).

How you do it will also affect what you need to do — is it a butterfly garden interacting with the great outdoors? Is it an aquarium? Is it one of those sealed terrariums? (very cool, I want one). All these will have different things to consider.

Sorry I can’t be of more help! I hope you’re able to find some answers soon — and please let me know if you do! I’m also very interested in bacteria ecology.

Four months.

He's only been alive for four months and his color is already this bananas-cray-cray.

Caved and bought myself a whole new bed setup. After spending time in various hotels for work over the summer I realized my mattress is just. Not my friend. And my current setup is a king, which is just way too big.

Did I have the money for this? No! But I'm tired of waking up with so much back pain so. Here we are.

dash is dead im teleporting to the past

https://www.tumblr.com/dashboard?max_post_id=606474489540042752

we cannot go through ONE family meal without my parents going ok can someone set up the cheese board :)

First - Genesis 1:5 "and the evening and the morning were the first day" Anon - Matthew 13:20 "But he that received the seed into stony places, the same is he that heareth the word, and anon with joy receiveth it" Hate - Genesis 24:60 "And they blessed Rebekah, and said unto her, Thou art our sister, be thou the mother of thousands of millions, and let thy seed possess the gate of those which hate them."

By - Genesis 7:2 "Of every clean beast thou shalt take to thee by sevens, the male and his female: and of beasts that are not clean by two, the male and his female." Price - Leviticus 25:16 "According to the multitude of years thou shalt increase the price thereof, and according to the fewness of years thou shalt diminish the price of it: for according to the number of the years of the fruits doth he sell unto thee."

Baby's first Anon hate by fisher price

I don't think any of those words are in the bible

I’m doing some research on Japanese ratsnakes because I’d love to get one someday, but you might get a few questions about them.

So when it comes to keeping snakes in plastic tubs, how should they be secured? Are normal ones that snap into place okay or do they need to be the ones with like handles that keep it shut?

With relativity to humidity, how difficult is it to keep 50% humidity in a glass enclosure?

Is it possible to use a ceramic heat lamp for a plastic enclosure or will it melt it? And how do you keep things like heat mats in there since they have chords that stick out?

Can you make hides out of plastic containers? And if so, should the containers be blacked out/not able to let light through?

How deep can a water dish be? One site said that Japanese ratsnakes like to swim so you can provide a bigger water bowl for them?

One site says “[in the enclosure, keep] Something rough, such as a rock. Rat snakes like to nudge against a rough surface to help them shed their skin.” Agree? Will a rough surface hurt the snake? Also any word on basking areas such as slate rocks?

Very cool, Japanese ratsnakes are a great choice!

You'll need the ones with handles that snap shut. I also recommend getting some tank clips in the right size for additional security.

50% humidity is usually manageable in a glass enclosure, but personally I prefer tubs for anything over 50% because it's just worlds easier, especially when you need to raise it during shedding. Japanese ratsnakes do best with humidity in the 50-60% range.

You can cut a hole in the lid and cover it with mesh to use a ceramic heat emitter safely with a plastic tub. For Japanese rats, though, they do best with a hotspot of 85 Fahrenheit and an ambient in the low 70s, so a heat mat is my preferred choice to keep them cool because they don't raise the ambient temp much. You'll want to keep the heat mat under the tub (NEVER put it inside) and regulate it with a thermostat with a probe inside the enclosure.

You sure can! I prefer black ones to help the snake feel hidden and secure.

Water dishes can be as deep as you like and can provide! Just be aware that your snake will likely defecate in the dish at some point, so don't put anything in that will be too difficult to clean.

A rough surface is standard for every snake to help them shed. You can provide a slate tile for basking, but if you're using a heat mat, the snake is unlikely to use it. I do recommend plenty of climbing branches, though - ratsnakes will definitely use those!

Do japanese ratsnakes eat eggs? Like if I had one, would it be ok to feed it an egg every once in a while?

Sure, all ratsnakes will happily eat eggs! The most important thing is sizing them correctly - make sure the eggs are smaller than a meal you'd normally feed, and they'll be fine.

do you have any recommended care guides for Japanese ratsnakes? :O your posts for them have definitely put them on my "want" list, but I prefer to research care for any unfamiliar species long before i actually commit to getting one.

Unfortunately, they're not really common pets in a lot of English-speaking countries, and I haven't been able to find a care guide that I like for them. I definitely recommend doing additional research, maybe talking to a breeder if you're looking into buying one, but I can tell you what I do for mine!

I recommend a 4x4x2 minimum enclosure for adults. They love to climb and are super active!

They do best at lower temperatures, and can overheat easily. I give mine a hotspot set to 85 Fahrenheit, and the enclosure can taper off to room temperature at the cool end.

Mid-high humidity is best! I recommend 50-60%.

They do great in plastic tubs when they're babies. A 20 gallon tub for babies and a 40 gallon for juveniles is my go-to. Heat mats are a good heating choice when they're in tubs since they don't need high ambient temperatures.

Lots and lots and lots of climbing branches! They'll use them.

Like most colubrids, they can be quite skittish as babies, but at about 6 months old or so they'll really become more outgoing if you've handled them consistently and patiently.

They're really good eaters! Make sure to stick to a consistent feeding schedule; they WILL beg you for more food and they WILL eat every single day if you let them. Don't let them.

Good luck as you decide if a Japanese ratsnake is right for you! I think they're amazing pets if you want a very active snake that gives you that awesome ratsnake look without as much of the ratsnake attitude. I've never met an adult that wasn't a sweetheart.

Like I said, they're tricky to find info for if you live outside of Japan, but they're not too expensive and there are a few breeders, and I see more and more hatchlings pop up every year! I think they'll hopefully be seeing a rise in popularity, they deserve it!

Do you have a care guide, feeding guide, or just more info about Japanese rat snakes? Is the blue a morph or them where they’re young? They’re soooo pretty

That was the standard morph! They're actually duller when young, and blue out more as they get older.

They're not common in captivity, so I can't point you towards in-depth care guides, but they're pretty dang easy as long as you give them lots of space and things to climb.

You'll want a hotspot set to 85 and an ambient temperature in the low-mid 70s. A heat mat is a great heating choice for them to maintain those lower temperatures. 50% humidity works well - make sure they always have water and a humidity hide, which they'll use from time to time.

They do great with the standard all-rodent diet. The biggest note there is that they're really great and enthusiastic eaters, so you have to be careful not to overfeed! They'd probably eat every other day if you let them. Don't let the begging for food get to you.

I got the Top 4.47% on this English Vocabulary test

My snake room with a cottagecore forestcore theme 🐍🍄🍄‍🟫🌲🏡🧚‍♀️🧚‍♂️🐿️

Real Science II: The Cookening

What I've been pondering for the past couple of years. It's a lot so I put it under a cut because I'm sure not everybody wants a wall of text.

The problems with the current standards of corn snake feeding:

One big barrier for budding snake keepers, particularly those living with parents or roommates, is the aspect of feeding live or frozen/thaw whole prey. Though someone may be fine having butchered meat in their freezer or refrigerator, there is a "squick" factor when the meat in question is a whole mouse with eyes and fur and a face. I would like to be able to recommend a viable alternative to whole prey to those who are uncomfortable offering it, and an alternative to frozen prey to those for whom the issue is keeping dead mice in the freezer next to the ice cream.

Frozen/thawed prey presents a potential food safety hazard if the prey is not properly handled. Prey that is not completely thawed before being fed can result in spoilage in a snake's stomach and may cause regurgitation or death of the snake. Prey items that have been thawed during transport and re-frozen may begin to break down and spoil, which could result in illness for the snake that is later fed this prey. I would like to be able to suggest a safer means of feeding pet snakes, with less risk of spoilage or foodborne illness.

Whole prey with intact gut microbiota may begin to putrefy more rapidly than butchered meats or cooked food. Snakes who hesitate to eat thawed prey for more than an hour or so may inadvertently make themselves sick, necessitating monitoring by keepers and increased food waste. I would like to be able to suggest an alternative food for picky or finicky eaters that is less likely to be tossed in the garbage if it's not consumed within 30 minutes.

Corn snakes in the wild eat a huge variety of prey including other reptiles, amphibians, small rodents, and birds. Corn snakes in captivity are limited to available prey in an appropriate size range, which for baby snakes usually means baby mice exclusively. This is not nutritionally ideal. I would like to be able to explore means of offering larger prey in a smaller package, in order to diversify prey types and ensure balanced nutrition for small snakes.

Keeping snakes has, until very recently, been largely a niche interest and those who keep snakes are still considered "weird" or "subversive" when corn snakes are truly an ideal low-low-maintenance family pet. I believe the "squick factor" associated with the feeding of snakes is a contributing factor in their continued marginalization. I would like to help make snake keeping more accessible and approachable to "everyday" people.

The rationale:

Domestic cats, an obligate carnivore that have evolved to eat raw whole prey, have transitioned very easily and rapidly to cooked prepared foods. Other reptiles such as blue-tongued skinks are frequently fed cooked prepared foods with no ill effect.

Snakes were fed cooked food in a 2007 study on the energy expended during digestion, and it was determined that consumption of cooked meat does offer an energetic benefit over raw meat. This study was looking specifically at metabolism of a single meal over a short time frame, however, and was not focused on long-term growth. Additionally, the snakes in question were Burmese pythons and they were being fed beef. :/

Offering a cooked diet reduces the concern of spoilage. Prepared food could be refrigerated rather than frozen and kept safely for days rather than hours.

Prey could potentially be cooked and sealed in convenient packaging (similar to fish fillet kitty treat packets) which could even be shelf-stable, reducing the need for keeping dead mice in the freezer and making the task of feeding snakes more palatable for a wide range of potential keepers.

Neonate corn snakes who initially resist eating may be enticed to eat a pinky mouse that has been dipped, whole or just the head, in boiling water. This is an established method of encouraging eating, and used by many snake breeders. It is possible that snakes may find cooked mice more palatable than raw or live.

Cooking meals opens the door to providing a wider range of prey in the form of sausages or ground homogenized meat. These sausages already exist in raw form (Reptilinks!), but they do not currently incorporate rodent prey species and are, as with frodents, subject to the hazards of shipping frozen raw meats. It may be worth noting that grinding meat has an additional reduction of digestion cost (higher net energy) versus intact whole prey.

The hypothesis:

I hypothesize that cooked prey will be more readily accepted by baby corn snakes as well as easier and faster to digest, resulting in higher growth rates and more robust young snakes than those fed raw prey.

The concerns:

Since we have already established that digesting cooked food results in increased net energy, I am a little worried that feeding the same prey sizes on the same cadence as raw diets will actually cause a weight gain trend towards obesity. This is something I will be watching for when I take monthly comparison photos.

I am also a bit curious about how trace vitamins and enzymes will be affected by a cooked diet. I already offer probiotic, calcium, and vitamin supplements to all of my snakes, though, so these differences will likely be mitigated and not explored in this particular study.

I am slightly concerned about what happens when the study concludes, if it is successful. Will I be able to transition these snakes back to raw food? Maybe I could offer two smaller prey items, one cooked and one raw, during the transition period. Will I even want to switch them back if the cooked food results in better growth? How practical is it to continue offering cooked food through adulthood? It's something I am considering, depending on growth trajectories. Can I offer occasional cooked prey but maybe not always? Does cooked food have reproductive implications? This experiment is likely to invite more questions.

Thinking forward:

Depending on the outcome of this experiment, I may begin to explore grinding meat as well as cooking it and incorporating other prey types in a Reptilinks-style sausage with a rodent meat base.

How would you describe the art style of the fashion design illustrations? I love the antiquarian looking style

hello my dear! 💖

what an interesting question! 💕💕 either fortunately or unfortunately, you asked either the best or worst person to talk about this lmao 😅😅 as an art history phd student, pretty much all I do is analyze images, so I definitely have some Thoughts™️

first, I'll say that style varies hugely based on time period and publication. even within decades, I've seen a wide variety of styles used, so if you had particular images in mind that you wanted me to talk about, feel free to let me know and I'd be thrilled to discuss those more specifically! ☺️☺️

because there is such a diverse range of stylistic approaches to illustrating fashion plates/images, I'm hesitant to make any sweeping generalizations here, but I will pick out a few themes that I've seen come up a lot:

2d medium vs. 3d object – one of the key features of fashion plates is that, ultimately, they are trying to sell you a garment/style. of course, clothing is three-dimensional, and especially when looking at things like bustled garments, they take up a lot of space in real life that is difficult to represent in a 2d medium. because of this "conflict" between the necessity of depicting the garment and the realities of the medium of drawing/print, we tend to see some odd positioning of the figures. they might be awkwardly bent or twisting in order to show off both a bodice and a bustle at the same time (the figure on the left here is a good example). we also see some "flattening" of the picture plane, wherein the placement of a normally voluminous feature (like a bustle) doesn't really make sense in a naturalistic space, but rather is almost parallel to the chest/bodice of the figure, when in real life it would project backwards rather than weirdly sideways (you can see this in almost any 1880s fashion plate featuring dresses, but this one is a nice example). [also please note that this is not a condemnation of these choices, but rather an analysis of why they're necessary in this medium]

ye olde photoshoppe – connecting to my first point, fashion plates are trying to sell you something, and therefore their artists have incentive to make that product look as attractive/appealing as possible. I do get comments from time to time about how "people don't look like that" or "that's not how bodies work," which, while true, also elide the fact that these artists are not necessarily trying to be naturalistic in their depiction of the human body – they're trying to show you the most marketable version of the human body as determined by the cultural values of their day. just as today we might see impossibly thin models on magazine covers or clearly fake thigh gaps in online retail, so too are the creators of these fashion plates embellishing and exaggerating the human form to make it as appealing as possible to consumers – they're selling a fantasy, not a reality

non-specificity – another thing that is fairly common across historical fashion plates is the non-specificity of facial features on the figures portrayed. if you feel so inclined, take a scroll through the blog and compare the faces of the figures in the illustrations (obviously this does not work in the same way for photographs). you'll likely find that you keep seeing the same face over and over again. what's more, that face has almost no distinctive features, and is almost doll-like in its perfection. given what we've already discussed, this isn't a surprise, since fashion plates are meant to sell garments, and therefore a portrait-like rendering of a specific model isn't really the goal. the figures in fashion plates essentially are dolls – they are meant to be "dressed" in whichever style is being sold, and visually appealing yet non-specific enough to potentially interest a large population of possible consumers

whew! okay I will wrap up my ramblings now, but I hope this was at least a little bit helpful or perhaps mildly interesting! ☺️☺️ as you can see, I love doing this kind of visual analysis, so (as I mentioned above) if you have specific images you wanted me to talk about stylistically, feel free to let me know!! ☺️💕 and thank you again for this great question! 💖💖

if you've made it to the end, thanks for reading my ramblings, and let me know what y'all think about the stylistic features of fashion plates if you have thoughts! 🥰🥰

@snake-spotted

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